Non-Touristy Ways To Spend 3 Days In Oaxaca

Highlights

• Absolute must: Seeing the street art in Jalatlaco, Mezcal tasting, visiting a cemetery and the Tree of Tule.
• Where to stay: Centro or Jalatlaco.
• Best food: All of the street food. Especially around Mercado 20 Noviembre and at the taco shop by the Tree of Tule.
• Why Oaxaca: From the street food and the passion for cooking to the colourful buildings and community spirit, Oaxaca is a great place to see the ‘real Mexico’… not the highrise hotels, spring breakers, and private beaches you see on the east coast.

Want this instead? Best solo travel trips around Mexico under £1000/$1300? Try here >>

Author experience – Why listen to me?

Key fact: 90% of the things on this list are things I’ve actually done. The other 10% are on my list for my next visit…

The first time I visited Oaxaca City was as a stingy backpacker. I arrived at 4 am after a 10-hour bus journey and had to hang around in the street outside my hostel for 3 hours until the place opened. Despite the rough start, I instantly knew this place was special, and since then, I’ve been back twice more with various family members and friends.

I’ve also spent 4 months living in Puerto Escondido, which is a short journey from Oaxaca City. And, a year living in Mexico as a whole. I’m nowhere near done with this incredible country, and this city happens to be one of my favourite places to go.

About Oaxaca

Oaxaca City is the capital of Oaxaca State. But in true Mexican fashion, they are both just called ‘Oaxaca’.

To make things easier, I’m going to stick to ‘Oaxaca’ in this post, but I’m specifically talking about the city itself and not the whole state (which you definitely couldn’t cram into 3 days).

Oaxaca has its own airport, which offers domestic and international flights, so it’s relatively easy to get to. The airport itself is around 30 minutes from the city centre, but there are plenty of collectivos (the Mexican word for a minibus) running to and from the airport. These are fine to book from within the airport terminal, and they only cost a few quid.

It’s also super-well connected via bus, which is how I first got here. If you’re travelling in Mexico by bus, I’d recommend sticking to ADO. I’ve found these have been the most reliable and most comfortable, plus you can book online, so if you worry about fumbling your Spanish at the ticket desk, it’s perfect.

Now, before I get stuck in, a little disclaimer. Use this itinerary as a rough guide and not a rule book. Oaxaca is one of the most creative, artsy cities I have ever been to. There are always so many things going on that you won’t find online or in guidebooks. So, keep your eyes peeled for posters and flyers around the city, and you’ll probably stumble on a hidden gem.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

For Parties: Sleep in Centro
For Peace: (Actually) Sleep in Jalatlaco

To see the best of what Oaxaca has to offer, I’d recommend staying in either Centro or Barrio de Jalatlaco.

Centro is going to have the most hotels, hostels, and Airbnbs. But it can get busy and noisy. Jalatlaco is smaller and nowhere near as busy; there aren’t so many places to stay. But it’s a very cool, lesser-known neighbourhood.

The city is super walkable, and most of what’s on this list is roughly within these blue circles. To put it in perspective, walking from the top right part of Barrio de Jalatlaco to the bottom left part of Centro would take you around 30 minutes.

To and from Oaxaca

If you’re coming in from Mexico City, estimate 6-7 hours by ADO bus to reach Oaxaca. It is priced around $25-$30 (Or £23). I got here from Puerto Escondido which is about half the time (3 hours) and approximately £16 or $21 USD.

If you want to support my writing and more importantly, check the travel times, book ADO buses etc, you can do so here >>

If you don’t like the idea of bus travel, you can always fly here too, particularly if you are starting off at Cancun, which is a day’s driving. Flights come in from Mexico City, and Cancun, and take approximately 1 and 2 hours respectively. Cancun has a more limited service to Oaxaca than Mex City, with only Viva and Volaris offering a non-stop service. You can book Volaris flights with Cheapoair.com.

Hey! If you’re travelling to/from S. America, then try this guide next: 3 Week South America Itinerary

Getting Around Oaxaca

The city is very walkable, and most of the things to do on this list are within a 1-mile radius. You shouldn’t need to catch a bus or public transport, but if you do, there are plenty of them. Just remember to agree on a price upfront with the taxis, and keep your belongings close to you on the bus. Pretty standard.

You most likely don’t need a hire car. But, if you are driving from elsewhere in Mexico, there is free on-street parking (though it does get busy) and loads of paid, secure car parks dotted around the city. It’s roughly 100 pesos to park all day, which works out to about £4.

Safety

Safety in Mexico is such an interesting subject. People who have never visited think it’s the wild west, people who have stayed here for a while realise it gets a lot of bad press. Whilst some states of Mexico are currently on the FCDO’s ‘avoid’ list, Oaxaca is not one of them.

Having visited a few times, I can say from my own experience that I’ve never felt unsafe. I’ve followed the usual advice, not going out late at night, not carrying crazy valuables, and so on, and I’ve been fine.

Actually, when our moped broke down in the middle of the mountains just outside of Oaxaca, the locals went out of their way to help us push it up over the mountain so we could coast down the other side to the nearest town.

Budgeting for 72 hours in Oaxaca City

Oaxaca is pretty budget-friendly, so long as you stay away from the boujee restaurants (which there are plenty of).

For 3 nights in a private room in a decent hostel, you’ll pay 3000-6000 MXN (£120-£240). There are also plenty of backpacker budget-friendly places on Hostelworld, where you can get a bed for as little as £10 a day.

Water will set you back by a whopping £1 for a big bottle. Street tacos are about 25-30 MXN (around £1 as well). And you’ll spend very little money on transport as you’ll be stomping the streets most of the time.

Total estimated budget for 3 days in Oaxaca

(Prices established as of 2025)

• £150 accommodation
• £2/$2.50 for a pint (500ml) of a local beer.
• £1/$1 for water
• £100-£150 ($130-$200) for breakfast/lunch/dinner x 3 days per person
  (Opt for market food for breakfast and lunch – or eat where you’re staying if they offer breakfast; then have a restarant meal at night, if you want to do something a little classier.)

This means for around £300 per person, you can have a ton of beer, eat well, and sleep in good accommodation. You can spend less if you stick to the street food, and stay in dorm beds in the lowest priced digs, but that’s your call!

What to pack for Oaxaca

• Comfy shoes, you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
• Lip balm and moisturiser! Maybe not something everyone struggles with, but at 1500m+ I find I start to dry out…
• A warm jacket or a waterproof one. If you visit in the dry season (November to April), you might find it gets chilly at night. If you visit in the wet season (May to October), there might be some showers.
• Sun cream (you’re 1500m closer to the sun, after all).
• A compact point and shoot camera. If you’re in summer clothes, you won’t want to be lugging around camera bags. My favourite under $250/£200 – The waterproof PixPro from Kodak. Bit in your face, but also captures video, is waterproof and a reliable brand.

3 days in Oaxaca itinerary

Whether you found your way here on a wider tour around the region, or have flown in for a very extra long weekend, I thought I’d help you out with what I do when in Oaxaca and try to avoid tourist trap activities. Sure, you are going to want to tick some boxes, but if you’re like me and enjoy seeing what a destination is really about for the locals, then maybe you’ll find some inspiration. Here goes…

Day 1: Mooching and Mezcal

Morning – Jalatlaco

During my first trip to Oaxaca, I made the happy accident of booking a hostel in Jalatlaco without really realising what I’d done. It looked pretty different when I rocked up in the dark, but as the sun started to rise, I realised what a cool area it was.

Jalatlaco is all cobbled streets, street art, craft stores, coffee shops, and postcard-perfect Mexican architecture and design. We were also here just before the Dia de Los Muertos celebrations, so the whole of Oaxaca was dressed up to the nines. It is impossible to take a bad picture of this place…

But, decorations or not, this is still a must-see neighbourhood to explore. It’s generally quieter than Centro, but even more so in the morning, so make the effort to get here early and you’ll have the streets to yourself.

Take the morning to soak up the street art, style, and local coffee spots. Special shout-out to Once in Oaxaca, which is an art and coffee shop combined.

Afternoon – Mezcal tasting

As much as this is a non-touristy list of things to do in Oaxaca, you can’t leave without trying Mezcal. It would be like going to Dublin and not having a Guinness. So, I’ve got a workaround that means you don’t have to join an organised tour.

Most of the tours will take you to huge mezcal-producing farms on the outskirts of the city, but you don’t need to go that far to try this Mexican delicacy. There are so many boutique Mezcalerías for you to stumble into. Most of these will offer you a few free tasters, hoping you’ll be tempted to buy.

Otherwise, you can also pay to do a full tasting with them, where you’ll learn about how it’s made.
I opted for the first option, trying a few samples of small-batch Mezcal from Mezcalería Mono de Calenda, before walking away with a bottle for the road.

Evening – a show/the theatre

Like I’ve already touched on, this is an incredibly creative, artsy city, so it makes sense to go and enjoy a live performance.

I did this during my first visit to Oaxaca, and it was one of the highlights of my trip. At this time, I spoke little to no Spanish and wasn’t sure what performance to expect. It turned out to be a modern dance performance, and when I say modern, I mean to the untrained eye (like mine), it didn’t exactly look like dancing. I held in the giggles the whole way out (at my own expense, not the performers).

That being said, we were the only tourists there. Because it wasn’t a “traditional Mexican dance” performance, the theatre was full of locals who clearly knew a lot more about modern dance than I do.

This was at the “Teatro Juárez”. They don’t even have a website, just a sporadically updated Facebook page, so you’ll need to head down and see what’s on while you’re there.

Day 2: Mercado, more Mezcal, and a very big tree

Morning – Mercado de la Merced

If you’ve already been looking for things to do in Oaxaca, you’ve probably seen Mercado 20 de Noviembre pop up. Whilst it’s a good shout, it can get a little hectic. 

Mercado de la Merced is off the beaten path in a residential neighbourhood outside the city centre. I’d recommend getting here early (it opens at 6 am), and joining the locals as they enjoy their breakfast.

If you’re not sure what to ask for, try “Chilaquiles con pollo y salsa verde”, a dish I’d never heard of until I got to Mexico, which is now firmly in my top 5 ever.

If you’re up for some cooking later, I’d also recommend stocking up on some supplies here.

Afternoon – The Tree of Tule

Bit of a strange one, I admit. And something you might think is going to be super touristy, which is actually not. The Tree of Tule is, apparently, the widest tree in the world. It’s thought to be over 2000 years old.

The first time I visited it, I questioned if it was worth it, but since then, I’ve been back for a second look, so there you go. It’s a 30-minute journey outside of Oaxaca, in Santa María del Tule, so you’ll need to grab a cab for this.

I’m recommending this for a couple of reasons:

• You might think it’s a waste of time to go see a big tree, but until you see it, you really can’t grasp how big it is and how cool that actually is.
• You get to see the town of María del Tule, which is way less touristy and more traditional than Oaxaca itself. You also get to see some of the outskirts of Oaxaca during the cab ride, which gives you a look at the wider city.
• There’s an incredible spot to grab tacos whilst admiring the tree.

Evening – Ready, steady, cook

If you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, and you took my advice and stocked up on ingredients at the market this morning, it’s time to whip out the knives (and maybe that Mezcal you bought yesterday).

A few Oaxaqueño recipe suggestions: 

• Flautas de pollo (crispy chicken tacos).
• Mushroom and cheese tacos.
• Memelas.
• Or if you’re feeling really adventurous, try a mole recipe… though this could take several hours.

If you’re one of those people who become allergic to stepping into the kitchen on holiday, I’d strongly suggest you head to Mercado 20 de Noviembre for dinner. The market itself will be shut, but the surrounding area will be full of street food vendors, you’ll be able to get dinner for a few pounds.

A few things to keep an eye out for:

• Tlayudas
• Memelas or Memelitas
• Queso Oaxaca (similar to a stretchy mozzarella cheese).
• Tacos blandos
• Chapulines (these are grasshoppers, a local delicacy).

DAY 3 – Hikes, icons, and the dead

Morning – Sunrise hike

Cerro del Fortin is a relatively easy hike that rewards you with incredible views over the city.

The hike starts on Calle Crespo, at the bottom of the Escaleras del Fortín which is a wide staircase that’ll be packed full of locals getting their steps in before the day starts. Get your ‘Buenos días’ pronunciation ready.
The stairs lead on through an underpass towards Auditorio Guelaguetza and after that a statue of Benito Juárez overlooking this beautiful city. If you’re really enjoying it, you can walk as far as the planetarium and observatory. Though it’s best to avoid going any higher around dawn or dusk.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, Coco Cafe Oaxaca is just a short walk from the bottom of the stairs. As a coffee snob, I can personally vouch for this place.

Afternoon – Francisco Toledo

Francisco Toledo is a local treasure. His career as a painter and sculptor spanned several decades, but what he was most loved for was his activism.

As well as supporting the younger generations of artists and protecting the customs of the local indigenous people, one of his biggest legacies is his fight against McDonald’s.

When he heard the fast food chain was due to open in Oaxaca’s 500-year-old square, he announced he would take off all his clothes and stand naked in front of the Golden Arches. And, to remind Mexicans how great their own food is, he would hand out free tamales to anyone who joined him.

An icon like this is definitely worth dedicating an afternoon to. You can learn about him here:

• The Institute of Graphic Arts of Oaxaca (IAGO)
• The Oaxaca Museum of Contemporary Art (MACO)
• The Manuel Álvarez Bravo Photographic Centre

Evening – An evening with the dead

Unlike the Day of the Dead parade in CDMX, which was only organised after the James Bond film gave the city the idea, Día de los Muertos celebrations are still very traditional in Oaxaca. The cemeteries are dressed with flowers, offerings, candles, and pictures, to guide the dead into the world of the living.

The Panteon General cemetery is only a 20-minute walk outside of the city. Or, the Xoxocotlan cemetery is a 15-minute taxi ride. Both are worth seeing.

If you manage to do this over the October/November period, it’ll be especially magical. But, if not, you’ll still be in for a treat. The Mexicans have a refreshing attitude to death. It’s not something to be scared of but a natural part of life, and it’s celebrated as such. Seeing how the locals treat and honour the dead is a brilliant insight into this country.

BONUS VERY NON TOURISTY ACTIVITY

Whilst not really something you can plan in, one incredible thing to see in Oaxaca is the wedding parties or saint day celebrations. I’ve been lucky enough to see both!

If you hear what sounds like a marching band stomping down the streets, you should stick around and wait for it. You might get to see dancers, giant recreations of the bride and groom, and fireworks going off in the street with 0 regard for health and safety. Free tequila is also pretty standard.

Other places to go near Oaxaca

If you’re travelling through Central America and have a bit more time to spend in Mexico after Oaxaca, then I recommend making a beeline for some of the following. (Depending on season)

Winter

If the weather is hot back where you are, then visiting the lowland areas like Acapulco (Beach Resort) and Los Cabos, can give you some cold temperature relief. Both are well known hotspots but be prepared for a wilder scene. If you’re in Mexico during the winter, then heading out here, will also give you a reminder of why you came to Central America in the first place!

Summer

If you’re looking for respite from the heat, and YES it does get hot, then head up to Mexico City which like Oaxaca is at a higher elevation than other parts of the country and can afford you access to A/C and lower temps.

G Adventures offer a 7 day tour from Oaxaca to Mexico City, which will get you back to civilisation and help you meet a group of like minded travellers too. Highly recommended. See here >>

Where next?

So that wraps up your three days in Oaxaca City. By now I’m sure you’ll see why I’ve been three times already and am still keen to visit more!

From the food to the architecture, to the people, to the art everywhere you turn, Oaxaca has such an amazing and magical vibe. Now, time to head off to your next destination in Mexico.

If you’re doing a broader journey and need more inspo, you may appreciate this guide next:

• 3 Week Mexico Itinerary