TLDR: In this guide I tell you how I broke my foot travelling around North Africa and importantly give you the lowdown on an epic all round 3 weeks in Morocco itinerary. Steal my route map or just daydream about it for a while. It’s all here.
Jump to: The itinerary | When to go | Safety | Budget | Getting around | Best stays
What to know before you go
Ave temp
28°C Oct – Feb
24°C March – Sept
Languages spoken
Arabic, French, Spanish & some English
Money needed
Dirhams primarily but
Euros often accepted
Visa info
90-day visa-free
for CANZUK/EU/US
Morocco has a sub-tropical climate, which means it has warm summers and cool winters. Yes, it’s Africa but large parts of the country are bathed in coastal air, so expect hot Junes to August (getting close to 40 degrees) and cooler Novembers to March. It’s like a warmer New York or London, if you will.
I get it, that’s probably the sloppiest weather explanation analogy but I think you get my point.
So, when is the best time to go? That depends on your ability to withstand the heat. If you like it hot, then your Summer is their Summer. If you want to avoid the busier periods in cities like Marrakesh, cutting the costs and the water consumption needs, then you may find March to May a great balance.
Shoulder seasons are generally the best balance. As a country that observes Ramadan, be mindful this can render some places a lot quieter than normal. I was in Agadir during Ramadan, and while I had the run of the place, it was so sleepy it was a bit too quiet for my liking. Still, it was cheap though.
Morocco is well served by a regular and cheap bus and coach service, it’s also got a pretty decent rail network. While travelling the country, I have used every form of transport available, including an internal flight from Fes to Marrakech which was too a little…uncomfortable.
Flying in a propellor plane at max thrust near the Atlas Mountains creates a level of turbulence I prefer to avoid. Admittedly I think I’m going to die with every bout of turbulence, which is a little concerning for someone who makes a living from travel.
However their ground systems are great if not a little tired in places. The rail network is pretty top notch and while it’s not as luxury as its Northern Mediterranean neighbour in Spain, the people who work on the network are friendly and incredibly helpful. I’ll get to that in the personal experience section.
Need to buy rail or bus tickets in Morocco? Try 12Go
If you can’t get a train or coach, there are a lot of private hire taxis who will gladly drive you where you want to get to. For example, we got a taxi from Agadir to Marrakech which set us back about £100 and we split with another traveller, going the same route. So £50/$60 each. About European prices on taxis at distance, but thats also because the drivers know they are being hired by a tourist. I’m confident if you spoke Berber the price would be a lot lower. Do you speak Berber?
We don’t 🙂
Still, it was comfortable and efficient and I’ve spent a lot more on less useful things in my life.
Probably not is my honest answer, as I’d gladly sit in Oualidia for a month and do nothing, but for 99% of people the answer is yes. You’re going to be able to do everything from seeing the Atlas Mountains, riding camels, seeing the desert, navigating medinas and you’ll eat so many Tagines, you’ll yearn for that Mcdonalds you had once in Marrakech.
I swear I gained half a stone just from sweet tea.
I think, if you leave somewhere thinking you haven’t finished it – and you could have had more, that’s probably the best way to do a trip. I left Morocco (partly because I broke my leg and had to) wishing I had a little more time.
No nation is truly ‘completed’ in 3 weeks, but Morocco gives you a lot for that time invested.
Arabic and Moroccan Berber are the two national languages, but as a former French colony and not being a million miles away, French is pretty widely spoken. I found my old French classes coming back to me while I was there, and managed to muddle along just nicely. Spain with its own former control over the country has had a language impact too, and there is a lot of places in Northern Morocco where it also helps you get around. English….yes and no. Depends where you are. Outside of the big cities, it’s a a big fat no. I could be wrong, but that was my experience.
That being said, down the Atlantic coast as you came closer to places such as Essaouira and Agadir, it was more useful. Probably due it being on the old hippy trail.
If you’re sticking to the coastline and the North of the country, pack as if you’re going to Spain or somewhere on the Med. If you’re heading inland, you want breathable clothing during the warmer months.
As a fairly conservative country still, you will want some modest clothing for females, and men should pack some long sleeve tops (linen shirts will do) and long trousers.
You don’t have to wear those things all the time, but it’s good to have them packed. I tend to take a multipurpose shirt or two. Something I can put on at the beach over a t-shirt to take the edge off, and could also could look good with a pair of chinos for an evening meal.
To get a deeper idea of what to take on an extended trip around Morocco, check out this guide linked below:
Travel Safety in Morocco
Morocco is a conservative value country, so by and large it is incredibly safe regarding crimes against the person. However, petty crimes such as theft and pickpocketing are a problem in and around Marrakech and some of the port cities. So, while staying in areas known for tourism – tone down obvious displays of wealth and use hotel and hostel safes.
For up-to-date travel safety warnings, check out the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office travel advice site: Morocco Travel Safety Advice
My own Moroccan tail
As a kid I had the privilege of being raised on the knee by my very own Lawrence of Arabia, it was my Grandpa. He was my hero. Fought in North Africa, worked in Intelligence, ran missions across the desert and was even in the Cavalry in Romania before leaving to emigrate to Britain to fight against the Nazis.
The stories of his escapades in the desert never left me, and when I got to a certain age I made it my mission to follow in his footsteps; or at least go to some places he did.
I’d originally toyed with the idea of buying an old diesel Mercedes and following the classic overland ‘drive it then sell it trip’ – but then my girlfriend decided she’d like to come too, and with that, any hope of wreckless endangerment was temporarily snuffed out…
…ish
I’d never been to Gibraltar, so we took a flight from Luton to a little bit of Britain in the sun and after a couple of days got our way across the border to Algeciras in Spain and took a ferry to Tangiers.
Tangiers feels like frontier territory, and I guess it is. It’s a port where hash smugglers run boats to Cadiz from and it’s a major departure point for migrants seeking new experiences in Europe.
We cut down by coach, taxi and train to the Atlantic coast and ferried our way through famous cities like Casablanca and Rabat, to the more hippy trail inspired centres such as Essaouira and Agadir. Our route intended to flip around after languishing on beaches and cut into the interior heart of the country, seeing desert before settling in to Marrakech.
We made good progress, although I think I would rather have had this as a 4 week itinerary and my intention was to carry on past Marrakech up to Fes. And then disaster happened.
**TRIGGER WARNING: MY FOOT**
Tip: Get travel insurance
i didn’t have travel insurance, which meant I had to source a couple of walking sticks from the markets around Marrakech, and use these along with a heavy handful of painkillers to travel approximately 800km (Wtf! lol) and 12 hours, as well as the obvious waiting around periods, simply to hobble across the border to Gibraltar. Where upon I meekly asked the customs officer for an ambulance.
Don’t be like me – get travel insurance. Who would I recommend for backpacking around Morocco?
Try this: EKTA Insurance
The Itinery Breakdown: 3 Weeks In Morocco
So, you’ve seen my own route and you think – this seems doable. Well for brevity I’ve captured it for you to echo below.
Day 1–2: Gibraltar
48 hours in Gibraltar. Climbed the rock, watched the views, and hung out with the famous monkeys.
Perched on the edge of the Med is a little bit (for me) of home. Pay for pints in pounds, buy cheap electronics and get fondled by small apes.
Convenient to start or stop a 3 week overland trip to Morocco from
Best Bits: Apes, military history, orcas, the scary suspension bridge and looking out from the top of the Rock.
Worst Bits: Micro-climate can mean the weather is very hit and miss. Prices of accommodation.
Bonus Tip: If you can get there for early September 10th you get to take part in National Day. A moment of local celebration for a proud people. It’s also nice and warm but outside of peak travel times.
Getting There: Easyjet and BA both run regular flights.
Day 2–4: Tangiers
Wandered the old town and eased into the Moroccan vibe.
A city that merges a historic medina with the conventional urban RARRR of being a port city. It’s a bit rough and ready in parts, but don’t let that put you off, there are some stunning places in the old town and it rewards your visit in spades. I loved my first experience of Africa.
Best Bits: Café Hafa and the café culture here in general. The old walls of the Medina and the beautiful gardens
Worst Bits: Scrappy, not a lot of chill
Bonus Tip: Head to Riad Dar Saba with their insane rooftop for an immediate injection of why you are in Morocco. You won’t regret it. Here’s their insta.
Getting There: Ferries for foot passengers from Algeciras, Spain cost around £50/$65. My 90-minute ferry set me back £46. I spent more time getting across from Port Tangier to Tangier town itself.
Day 4–5: Rabat
Quick stopover en route south.
I came here really because it was on the route but that’s not fair. It’s clean, economically developing and has some stunning landmarks. You’ve probably not realised you’ve seen one of the most famous ones – The Hassan Tower. Good for shopping and a place to take an excursion into Atlas Mountains and a useful transport hub. I moved on though as time was short and I wanted to get down the coast.
Best Bits: Hassan Tower, Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the UNESCO Kasbah
Worst Bits: You’re probably never going to remember this place. Sorry
Getting There: I took the train from Tangiers – it took 1 hour 20 and didn’t cost more than $30/£25.
Day 5–8: Casablanca
Laid-back days exploring Morocco’s biggest city.
It gets a bad rap these days as getting a bit dirty in some parts but there’s also some stunning places to see. This city evokes something incredibly nostalgic to me, not least because of the famous film named after the place and you can go to a real life ‘Mock’ Rick’s Café in the city these days.
A bit more banking than hedonism here is probably a fair description of tourism in Casablanca, but it meant we had a few days to catch a breath, do laundry and hit the gym.
Best Bits: Rick’s Café and the Art Deco district
Worst Bits: Feels a bit corporate and soulless in some parts. Like a Luxembourg in Africa.
Getting There: A train from Rabat was £10 and took one hour.
Day 8–11: El Jadida
A coastal gem with slower pace and faded Portuguese charm.
A couple of hours down the Atlantic coast and you find this charming old Portuguese fort town of El Jadida. It’s fairly affluent, it’s clean and it’s a mini Morocco. We took a tour with a local who showed us around the cliff rock formations and underground cave network.
Best Bits: Natural geographers will love the sandstone cliffs, arches and stacks.
Worst Bits: Not doing that to this place.
Getting There: 2 hours by bus but we caught a slow one. There is a quicker option, but plan for 90–120 minutes. And it won’t cost more than $10 or Euro/GBP equivalent.
Day 11–14: Oualidia
3-day break by the sea.
This place is straight out of left field. I think we got this recommendation from a hostel owner in Tangier, or maybe it was an old Lonely Planet book, I kick myself for not remembering this, but wow.
It is beaches and dunes for days, some of them feel like you’re the only person in the world that knows about them. It’s the capital of the country for oyster fishing and so if you like them you’ll be happy. I just laid on the beach and then strolled to the local ice cream shops. It feels a little like Morocco’s version of Huntington Beach, CA.
Best Bits: Discovering the place, Oysters, friendly locals
Worst Bits: Leaving
Getting There: Hairy taxi ride to this one, as he drifted all over the road, but for non-idiots, you can take a 2 hour bus for about a fiver ($7) using 12go
Day 14–16: Essaouira
Windswept charm and medina markets.
Picturesque and pretty much everything you imagine Morocco would look like. From Riads you flex on Insta to being a place with a buzz that you can meet like-minded travellers. If you’re travelling alone through Morocco, Essaouira is a good spot for meeting new people.
Best Bits: Looks beautiful, Jimi Hendrix’s Sandcastle, the solo travel scene. Head to Taros at sunset for rooftop views.
Worst Bits: Can be a bit more crowded with other tourists discovering themselves.
Bonus: Jump in a grand taxi, and get yourself to Sidi Kaouki, which is a lovely beach 25 minutes away and is a bit more secluded.
Getting There: There is a bus for about £10 which takes 4 hours or you can take a tourist taxi which will do it in about 2 hours and is £40. (Or $55)
Day 16–18: Agadir
Surf and sun on the Atlantic coast.
Penultimate stop on our trip and we got somewhere my mum came decades before me. It’s part of the old hippy trail and has great surfing. None of that great surfing was done by me, but I had a damn good shot. We were a little lazy this time around and checked into a Novotel. I’d been hostelling most of the route and just wanted a little bit of pamper.
Agadir has a pretty widely established tourist scene and attracts visitors from around the world, so I knew I could bag a decent night’s sleep and some hotel luxuries. Gym – breakfast buffet and fluffy towels!
Best Bits: Easy access for day trips to Atlas Mountains (I did this), good services and nice beaches
Worst Bits: A little bit Costa Del Sol for some people’s tastes. It’s getting quite hotel high rise.
Getting There: Try this link – 3–4 hours on a coach, but as per usual, still under $10. It was £6 to be precise for me in British money.
Day 18–21: Marrakech
4 nights of mint tea, rooftop bars, and broken bones.
My final stop, I got here in just under 3 weeks. Love it for the Riads and the rooftops, love it for the call to prayer – such an evisceral sound. And, I love it for the sheer chaos of it all.
I feel like Marrakech got stiffed by Dubai as they have been doing pool bars like Nikki Beach a long time before there and they don’t get the credit for it.
There are some lovely places to take a breather outside of the Medina and get some chill on.
I decided to plunge my foot into a puddle after a rainstorm to splash my partner and then break my ankle, foot and toes in several places. But, still I got to do one thing I loved again. Sit overlooking Djemma el-Fnaa sipping mint tea as the sun goes down. You need to do that too.
Best Bits: The Riads, the sunsets, the sound of prayer
Worst Bits: I know some love these, but I can’t handle the hustle of the souks
Bonus Tip: Get yourself to Balcon du Cafe Glacier for a view of Marrakesh at sunset. You see everything happen and about to happen at once. It’s utterly charming. El Fenn is nice too, but it feels a bit more like the view is the bar and not the world outside. Which is why for me ‘Balcon’ is the best rooftop bar in Marrakech.
Getting There: £-4 hours by ‘Luxury Taxi’ or Bus. Expect to pay $90 for the taxi, or $10–$15 for the bus/coach.
Best Riads to Stay in Marrakech
Ambre Epices Medina Riad
📍 Riad, Medina – Marrakech
Riad Trésor Marrakech
📍 Riad, Medina – Marrakech
Riad Shama Suites
📍 Riad, Medina – Marrakech
Riad Sierra
📍 Riad, Medina – Marrakech
Riad La Croix Berbere Deluxe
📍 Riad, Medina – Marrakech
Riad Laila
📍 Medina, Marrakech
Riad El Walaa
📍 Medina, Marrakech
Extra pre-trip info on Morocco
If you’re still here and curious to know about budgeting, local food to try and beyond, we have added some extra bits of information that may help you in planning or doing your 3 week trip around Morocco.
Travel budget for 3 weeks in Morroco
This information was collated from a range of open source data providers, such as pricing averages on Hostelworld.com, Booking, and public data from the official Moroccan tourist board.
Accommodation
From $19–70 per night
Food & Drink
From $10–30 per day
Transport
From $5–25 per trip
Morocco Trip Cost Calculations
Will my budget stretch? If you need to work out if your planned budget for spending 3 weeks around Morocco will last the distance, try our trip cost calculator linked below.
What numbers to use? Use the numbers above, as these are based on backpacking on a budget to a solo traveller doing it in style. The rate for transport per day was what I averaged travelling between cities in Morocco which you can see tended to actually be around £10 per day.
I found that for me, I got around Morocco in 3 weeks on a budget of £1500-$2000. I had the luxury of sharing some costs with a travel buddy, but if you think that travel per day is around £10/$15 and accommodation at some great hostels can come in around £25-£40, you’re doing a daily budget of about £70/$90.
BUDGETING: 3 Week Trip Cost CalcuulatorMust-try Berber Dishes & Drinks
I’m going to recommend two things here. But I’m not just going to recommend the blindingly obvious – tagines and sweet tea….wait, that is exactly what I’m going to do. But, there is one exception, it’s in the how.
Food
You’re going to get a Tagine. This Berber staple tastes insan; just like any slow cooked, moisture rich stew does. If you don’t eat meat, that’s okay, you’ll find catering for all options. But we are going to explore a little. I want you to dive head first into the medina of one of the great Moroccan cities and hunt out this bougee and instagrammable place known as Dar Cherifa in Marrakech. The place looks like this – and the food tasted just as good.
Drinks
Right, you’ve had your textbook Tajine, you’re almost a cuisine hero – now it’s time for your beverage. Is there a more famous drink associated with Morocco than Mint Tea? Probably not. But again, it’s the where.
Where are you having this drink?
You’re sitting on the North African coast, staring out to the Mediterranean in the shadows of where the Beatles would spend time pondering the world. Over a 100 years young, this cafe brings ‘off the beaten track’ tourists and locals together, in what is ostensibly a very simple and very lovely tradition. Drinking sweetened mint tea and staring into the distance. Look back at what you’ve left behind, and look forward to what is waiting for you here. This is Cafe Hafa and must stop on any 1, 2, or 3 week itinerary of Morocco.
So, get it booked! Morocco’s calling
There you have it, how to spend 3 weeks in Morocco, blessed by the foot destroyer himself. It’s a wonderfully contradictory country. It has its stoic cultural conservatism; a monarchy of significant power, an adherance to religion and theology; but it also has a wild side. It’s North Africa as you imagined it watching films inspired by solders coming home post Second World War. Snake charmers, spices, mountains, deserts and the call to prayer.
It’s noisy, bustling, restless, intoxicating, beautiful.
You go from the souks to the seaside, tagines to oysters. Tui all inclusives in Agadir to Riads in Marrakech. As a country it has it all. They took care of me and in writing this, I hope I did them a little bit of justice in return. I love Morocco, I think you will too.
Now, check out some flight prices with our thank you link 🙂
Click the enlarge button on the top right corner. Credit: map data: Google
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